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First, it helps to have some idea as to why skunks are coming
into your yard and what they are doing, aside from "digging
up the lawn." In most instances, skunks are seeking, and
obviously have found, reliable food sources, especially insects,
such as earthworms and the large, white grubs of the Japanese
beetle. Although you may be successful in removing the offending
animal doing the damage, in a short time, another likely will
arrive to replace it. As long as reliable food is available, skunks
and other animals will continue to utilize it. Thus, permanent
elimination of skunk problems may not be possible.
Fencing is an option, but homeowners sometimes object to its
use for aesthetic reasons or may not know how to erect a fence
properly. "Properly" means burying the fence 6 to 8
inches and extending an "L" out away from the base of
the fence an additional 8 to 10 inches. Skunks are efficient diggers
and readily will dig under an improperly installed fence in a
matter of minutes. Another option that often is as effective as
burying a fence is to erect a single strand of electric fencing,
or a "hot wire," at the base of a conventional fence,
approximately 3 to 4 inches above the ground. When the animal
approaches the fence to dig at its base and comes in contact with
the electrified wire, the animal receives an unpleasant, but harmless,
shock on its nose. This experience often is sufficient to prevent
further attempts by the animal. Use of electrified fence material
is not recommended in areas where small children have free access
to it and any application of electrified materials must have clearly
posted warnings alerting people to its presence and use.
According to current EPA guidelines, naphthalene (the active
ingredient in mothballs) is not registered for use as a repellent
on skunks, although many people use and continue to recommend
it. However, naphthalene is ineffective in outdoor applications
as a repellent and should not be recommended as such. The only
product currently registered (federal standards) for use on skunks
is the sodium nitrate gas cartridge, used to treat burrows. Because
they are considered a combustible device, never use a gas cartridge
in burrows located beneath or immediately adjacent to a building
or in areas dominated by heavy, dry vegetation to avoid a potential
for fire.
The most effective solution to managing skunk problems is to
make your lawn/landscape unattractive to skunks by eliminating
protective cover, potential sites used for denning, and food sources
(e.g., accessible pet food dishes, uncovered garbage cans, unprotected
compost piles). Look beneath raised decks and porches to see if
you can find burrow openings there. These are favorite denning
locations for skunks and groundhogs, particularly beneath structures
having lattice-work or heavy landscaping covering the perimeter--they
provide perfect cover and protection from predators. If you find
a burrow and it appears fresh, you can check on the occupants
by putting down a very thin sprinkling of baking flour around
the opening or along any access points to the den. If it is occupied,
you can identify the occupant by the tracks left in the flour
(check a field guide to animal tracks available in most public
libraries).
Regarding the use of live-trapping, it can be effective, but
rarely will provide a permanent solution to problems caused by
skunks for reasons identified earlier. Also, you should be prepared
to trap on a regular basis. For skunks, a 10 inch x 10 inch x
32 inch cage trap (with a single operating door, not a two-door
trap) is needed. For bait, try a can of cat food (fish type).
Sardines work best, but often attract free-roaming cats in the
neighborhood before a skunk has opportunity to investigate. Cover
the trap with burlap, cloth, a plastic garbage bag, or other material
before positioning the trap. Cover all but the last 3 to 4 inches
of the top near the door. This will help calm the captured animal
and also will provide some protection against being sprayed. State
trapping regulations stipulate that traps must be checked at least
once every 24 hours and any animals caught must be dispatched
within that time period.
The relocation of nuisance animals in Virginia is illegal without
authorized permit from the Department of Game and Inland Fisheries.
Thus, homeowners are not allowed to transport any wild animal
from their property. Any nuisance animal caught must be released
at the site of capture or humanely put to death. Relocation is
not as humane as people believe. A high proportion of relocated
animals perish during encounters with predators, motor vehicles,
and other individuals of the same species as the displaced individual
tries to return to the "home" territory. People also
may be contributing unknowingly to the spread of infectious disease
(e.g., rabies, distemper, parvovirus) by moving animals from contaminated
areas to presently uninfected regions. Additionally, homeowners
expose themselves to these diseases and are bitten or scratched
when attempting to relocate nuisance animals.
Virginia Sources
Skunk
Management, Virginia Cooperative Extension
Other Sources
Best
practices for Nuisance Wildlife Control Operators in New York
State
Coping
with Skunks, Colorado State Cooperative Extension
Dealing
with Nuisance Wildlife, Maryland Cooperative Extension (need to
scroll to appropriate species)
Managing
Skunk Problems in Kentucky, Kentucky Cooperative Extension
Prevention
and Control of Wildlife Damage-1994
Skunk
Control and Management Information
Skunks,Urban
Wildlife Damage Control, Kansas Cooperative Extension
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