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CONTROL TECHNIQUES:
To reduce the potential for damage to personal property, precautions
should be taken before a beaver develops an interest in your property.
As with most wildlife damage problems, no single technique exists
that will provide absolute protection from beaver depredations.
However, certain measures that are initiated in a timely fashion,
maintained properly, and applied with an understanding of the
habits or behaviors of beavers can reduce the likelihood of significant
damage. People residing within the beaver's range (primarily owners
of shoreline property) should recognize that beavers are clever
and persistent animals and they may be able to circumvent some
of the control techniques mentioned below. Therefore, anyone affected
by beavers must be willing to implement a comprehensive management
strategy involving multiple techniques.
TOLERANCE:
Knowing that beavers fulfill an important role in creating wetlands
and providing new habitat for a variety of wildlife, an easy approach
to dealing with beavers is simply to learn to live with them.
Beavers are intriguing animals and being able to see how a beaver
lives and to observe the engineering skills at work can be fun
and educational. If a beaver has moved onto your property and
is in a location that will not cause damage to driveways, septic
systems, or landscaping, you may choose to leave the beaver alone.
On small ponds and streams, a colony of beavers usually will leave
the area after 4 to 7 years, or once the food supply they are
dependent upon has been depleted. However, other wildlife species
attracted to the pond the beavers abandoned will remain long after
the beavers have left.
PREVENTIVE MEASURES:
Realistically, it is difficult to keep beavers away from your
property once they take an interest in it. Techniques such as
cutting down scrubby trees and other vegetation along the water's
edge and into the adjoining upland have been suggested as means
to eliminate potential food sources and construction materials
that beaver would use. Theoretically, this should cause them to
overlook your property for other areas with more suitable resources.
However, this has not been shown to be a feasible method of keeping
beavers off your land and likely would have only a minimal impact
on beaver.
REPELLENTS:
There is only one product registered by the US Environmental
Protection Agency for use as a repellent on beavers. The active
ingredient in this repellent is denatonium saccharide, and the
formulation is marketed under the trade name Ro-pel®. Ro-pel®
is a bitter-tasting liquid that can be painted or sprayed on trees,
shrubs, and ornamental landscaping to deter chewing. Ro-pel®
would be most effective when used at the first indication of beaver
presence or in areas where beavers are most actively feeding.
However, as is true with many other repellents, frequent reapplication
may be required to maintain best results.
NON-LETHAL CONTROLS:
Non-lethal controls used to deter beavers can be expensive and
require substantial investment of time by a landowner to put them
into use. Examples include the use of fencing and water leveling
devices.
Fencing
* Heavy gauge woven wire fence (2 inch x 2 inch mesh size) can
be wrapped around the base of a tree and connected to itself using
strong metal fasteners to create a tree guard that a beaver cannot
pull apart. Never attach a guard directly to a tree with nails
or staples. The tree guard should be wide enough to allow for
normal tree growth (leave 1-2 inches of space all the way around)
and at least 3 feet tall to prevent the beaver from reaching up
and gnawing on the tree above the fence. Each guard should be
staked securely to the ground to prevent the beaver from pushing
under or lifting it (remember: put your support stakes inside
the guard or the beaver will chew them off!). In areas where substantial
snow cover may accumulate, tree guards should be taller to prevent
beavers from standing on packed snow and reaching over the top
of the guard.
* Temporary or permanent, single strand, high-tensile electric
wire can be staked on short posts about 3-4 inches above the soil
surface, and attached to a reliable charger (powered either by
a direct 110-volt supply or a rechargeable battery pack). This
"fence" should be constructed along the entire shoreline
just above the slope where beavers would haul out of the water
or across the paths beavers might use. The intent of this approach
is to use the electric wire to deter beavers from coming out of
the water and gaining access to areas where valuable trees, landscape
plantings, or other vegetation likely would be cut and removed.
The electric wire delivers a mild shock to the beaver in the nose/head
region and encourages the animal to move to another location.
Such fencing requires periodic maintenance to remove limbs that
may have fallen across the wire and grass or weeds growing up
beneath and contacting the wire, both of which will ground or
short the electric circuit.
* Other types of prefabricated electric and non-electric fences
are available commercially. Some of the simplest prefab electric
setups are made with support posts already attached. A landowner
simply unrolls the fence, pushes the stakes in the ground, and
has a fast, easy set-up ready to charge. Fences can be used in
two ways: (a) as a horizontal barrier between the shoreline and
the land to be protected from beavers, and (b) as an enclosure
to protect an area or group of plantings from the beaver. Any
electric fence must be used with caution, especially around young
children and pets. In fact, many municipalities have adopted ordinances
prohibiting the use of electric fencing. Landowners must check
with local authorities to determine if it is legal to operate
an electric fence in their area before installing and activating
any such device.
Water Leveling Devices
Water leveling devices are used to manipulate the level of water
behind a beaver dam or plugged road culvert without a need to
remove the dam or destroy the beavers. These devices disperse
the flow of water in a way that beavers do not detect a leak nor
are they alerted to the strong sound of running water, which would
trigger them to find and plug a suspected breach in the dam. Water
leveling devices can be made from a variety of materials, including
wood, logs, plastic and metal pipes, and mesh covered boxes or
troughs. Some of these devices can be a bit complicated to build
and most will require the services of a hydraulic engineer to
properly assess or gauge the volume of flow in the water source
and to determine how many leveling units would be needed to adequately
handle that volume. Also, because alteration of a beaver dam may
affect the integrity of the wetland system upstream from it, an
alteration permit may be required under local, state, and/or federal
wetland regulations; landowners must check with permitting authorities
before any alteration work begins and construction of such devices
is contemplated.
Some examples of water-leveling devices include the following:
* The Clemson Beaver Pond Leveler-this device consists of a
variable length, solid, 8-inch diameter, polyvinylchloride (PVC)
culvert pipe and elbow riser as a discharge unit coupled to an
intake device made from a 10-foot section of 8-inch diameter,
perforated PVC pipe surrounded by a cylinder of galvanized welded
wire (Figure
1). The height of the elbow riser will determine the elevation
of the water behind the dam.
* The 3-Log Drain-this device is constructed by lashing 3 full-length
logs together and fastening sections of roofing tin to the bottom
of the lashed logs (Figure 2). By inserting the device into a notch cut in the dam and
parallel to the direction of flow, this drain will be incorporated
into the structure of the dam as the beavers repair the cut you
made in the dam. However, water will continue to flow between
the logs that comprise this device and allow water to be maintained
at a desired elevation.
* A variety of other beaver flow pipes-there are many designs
for other pipes that can be inserted through a beaver dam or road
culvert to regulate the flow of water out of the impoundment.
Modifications to the upstream end of these devices, ranging from
simple holes cut into the pipe or the addition of strainer baskets,
diffuser caps, or "T" shaped attachments, are used to
spread the intake of water over a larger area and help avoid a
concentrated flow of water into the device. Similarly, various
attachments have been affixed to the outflow end to help silence
the flow of water coming out (to avoid raising suspicion in the
beaver that a leak may have occurred) and to establish the desired
elevation of water within the impoundment (Figure
3).
All of these devices are designed to be incorporated into the
dam structure. Pipes should extend a considerable distance back
into the pond and away from the dam (a minimum of 20 feet) to
reduce the likelihood of detection by beavers and thus prevent
them from plugging up the intake pipe. A key factor in assuring
success with a water leveling device is to not drop the elevation
of the water in the impoundment below a level that will expose
the opening to the den or lodge. If that happens, beavers often
will move either upstream or downstream from the existing dam
and construct another structure that will reestablish water cover
over the lodge opening. Therefore, correct installation of these
devices requires time and some engineering knowledge. Water leveling
devices often can be expensive; costs range from a few hundred
to several thousand dollars, depending on the price of the construction
materials and the number of devices needed to properly handle
the volume of flow. However, when properly sized and placed, water
control devices provide an opportunity for beaver and landowners
to coexist without the serious threat of flooding.
LETHAL CONTROLS:
If all attempts to deter beaver from your land have failed, then
removal of the problem animals may be necessary. Where damage
to timber, crops, ornamental or landscape plants, septic systems,
or roads has occurred, the owner or lessee of the property may
receive authorization to remove a colony of beavers, but only
after the damage has been reported to and verified by the local
game warden (þ29.1-518 of the Code of Virginia, Wildlife
and Fish Laws). The warden will issue a permit that clearly states
any limitations on the taking of beaver (e.g., length of time
permit is valid, authorized methods of kill, disposition of any
carcasses) and requires that a report is sent to VDGIF that summarizes
the outcome of beaver removal efforts. Two methods commonly used
to remove beaver are trapping and shooting the problem animals.
Other lethal methods of take, such as the use of poisons, are
not allowed in Virginia. There currently are no toxicant or fumigant
products registered by the US Environmental Protection Agency
for use on beavers.
Trapping-Trapping can be an efficient and cost effective means
to manage beaver populations within watersheds. Although trapping
will not prevent beavers from recolonizing suitable habitat in
the future, it does provide affected individuals and communities
with a methodology to keep beaver numbers in balance with society's
desires and tolerances.
Even though landowners may be allowed to use traps to capture
beaver, many individuals today are not familiar with the technology
nor do they possess the equipment and field skills necessary to
be successful. Thus, trapping may best be left to professionals.
Your local warden may be able to recommend a licensed trapper
who would be willing to help you. Alternatively, representatives
from the Virginia Trappers Association (VTA) might be willing
to assist landowners wanting to have beavers removed from a property
(for those with internet access, here is the homepage for the
VTA).
Two basic types of traps are available for taking beaver: live
traps and kill traps. Live traps are designed to capture the animal
alive and allow the trapper some options in the disposition of
the captured animal whereas kill traps, as the name implies, are
designed to put the animal to death as humanely as possible. Bailey
and Hancock "suitcase-type" traps (Figure
4) are examples of live traps suitable for capturing beaver.
However, by state regulation, any beaver captured alive by a homeowner
may not be removed from that property and transported and released
elsewhere. This restriction is intended primarily to prevent the
potential transfer of a beaver problem from one area to another.
The Conibear®, a type of body-gripping trap (Figure
5), is an example of a commonly used and authorized kill trap
for beaver. Steel leghold traps also may be used to capture beaver.
Snares with an opening of less than 12 inches in diameter and
set with the top of the loop not more than 12 inches above the
ground may be used, but only on private lands and only with written
permission of the landowner. In situations where body-gripping
or leghold traps or snares are used, trappers must possess the
required license or permit and all traps used must bear a metal
tag that displays the trapper's name and address. Specific details
on allowable trap sets and sizes, dates of trapping seasons, and
allowable bag limits are available in a summary of hunting and
trapping regulations published annually by the VDGIF. Similarly,
your local game warden can provide answers to any questions you
may have about state trapping regulations. For additional details
on specific trap sets and designs, readers are encouraged to review
Miller and Yarrow (1994), cited at the end of this publication.
Shooting-Although allowed by state law, shooting raises a number
of practical and safety concerns. Many cities and towns have local
ordinances that prohibit the discharge of firearms within their
municipal boundaries. Before considering shooting as an option,
you must first determine whether a firearm can be used in your
area. Where shooting is allowed, special care should be taken
when firing at or near water bodies. Rifle shots aimed toward
water are subject to ricochet and slugs glancing off water can
travel substantial distances; thus, care must be taken prior to
pulling the trigger to verify that a safety zone exists well beyond
the target area. To reduce the potential for ricochet, consider
using a shotgun with heavy waterfowl loads or buckshot instead
of a rifle. Also, whenever possible, beavers should be shot while
they are on land. It is advisable that advanced notification be
given to your local warden and/or police department if you intend
to implement a shooting effort outside the normal hunting season.
By so doing, you will save them time and effort that might needlessly
be wasted in investigating and responding to calls of firearms
being discharged in your area.
Virginia Sources
Managing
Wildlife Damage: Beavers, Virginia Cooperative Extension
Other Sources
Beaver
Damage Prevention and Control Methods, University of Arkansas
Beaver
Management in North Carolina
Controlling
Beaver, University of Nebraska
Controlling Beaver Damage, Texas Cooperative Extension
Prevention
and Control of Wildlife Damage-1994
Wildlife Damage Management: Beavers, North Carolina Cooperative Extension
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